This article has not yet been updated to reflect the latest changes in legislation. Working on it!
Compliance isn’t enough.
Sure, we are nowhere near as loose as the US where the concept of a ‘nightstand’ pistol is very real as the joke of sleeping with your guns may actually be a reality, but it’s still important to stop and consider – am I doing the minimum I need to do in order to comply or am I actually taking all practical steps to ensure that my firearms are secure? There is a world of difference in both attitude and results in those two statements.
Every now and then you hear a report on stolen firearms. While it is important to note that police are not reporting increased numbers of theft, any firearms disappearing into unlicensed hands is of concern for society. What also concerns me is when I hear about how some of these robberies were performed. ‘The window was opened with a spade lying nearby and the gun case was carried away with some other items’. Was the storage compliant? Maybe? Had the owner done everything practical to prevent their theft? No. Not by a long shot.
I know of more than one shotgun that is secured by wire rope wound around a ‘stout stud’ in the garage. This was chosen because it was the cheapest way of ‘complying’ with the firearms safety requirements.
And you know what – it probably is secure. But it’s the attitude of placing cost as the priority that needs to change.
Rule 6: Store firearms and ammunition safely
You are required by law to have a safe and secure place to store your firearms. All firearms and ammunition should be stored separately, out of the reach of children, out of view and in a secure room, rack or cabinet approved by your Arms Officer.
My first ‘storage’ system was a Guncity Rack – and I will admit – as advertised, I viewed it as ‘This is the cheapest and simplest way to comply’.1 I purchased it, screwed it into a stud in a cupboard and had the arms officer come around and sign it off. Good to go!
One day. One day.
There was a couple of factors that led me to replace it with a safe. The main being that I was getting into Pistol Shooting and therefore needed a suitable B Cat Safe. Compliance.
But I figured that if I was getting a safe instead of just getting a small pistol safe I should get a full size one for a couple of reasons.
I realised that I was going to want to own more than one rifle at some point.
Unbolting, pulling the gun off the bar and threading it through the front ‘holder’ meant I was banging the rifle a couple of times and wasn’t actually the world’s easiest thing.
Even though it was in a cupboard I didn’t like how ‘open’ the storage of the rifle was.
It just ‘felt’ more secure.
In the end I purchased an E Category Safe and actually hired some professional lifters (with a handy stair climbing machine) to get it into the space it needed to be. Four deadbolts into concrete, four into studs and metal plates later, and the safe was good to go! Sure, if someone was going to take to the safe with a gas axe, they would I guess eventually get it open. After making a hell of a lot of noise and likely getting a tap on the shoulder from the police – ‘why yes officer, the silent alarm has gone off, no I am not there, yes there are firearms in the building, yeah, gas-axe required’. It’s much more reassuring to me than a re-purposed locker with a padlock on it.
Is this level required for compliance? For E and B, yeah. For A? Not so much. But I would put it out to people that it’s worth considering. Especially in modern times, when we as firearm owners should be demonstrating an understanding of the responsibility we have in securing our guns when not in use.
Bolt and ammo?
Ohhhh… contentious subject. It’s required that either ammo is stored separately, or the firearm is made incapable of firing. I personally, like to keep bolts in the firearms to protect the action and internals and also to protect the bolt head itself. The ammo is locked away separately. However, if I am heading away for any period of time, then I would remove the bolts and store them separately as well (hell, if I am heading overseas, they are likely going to another address totally). Again – totally not required or expected – but it’s easy enough to organise, so why not?
Gun Storage when travelling?
This is where things can get interesting.
Generally, if you are travelling, the firearm is in the vehicle with you. As per regulations, you can’t leave the vehicle unattended with firearms in it. This means you need to do a little bit of forward planning.
For a start – don’t put it in the back seat (or the front), or anywhere that it’s going to be obvious to anyone looking in on it. This is a reason why a plain, not blatantly obvious case is a good thing. In my eagerness (ignorance?) of a first rifle purchase, I got a rifle bag in blaze camo. It basically screams gun. In hindsight not the best of ideas. Much like the pelican case with gun stickers all over it, while we don’t need to be ashamed or shy about owning firearms we don’t need to be drawing excessive attention to the fact we have a firearm being transported.
It is the document the Police, Arms Officers, everyone needs to be referencing when it comes to firearms storage – it is what I teach in the courses, and what is slowly become the standard when it comes to understand what the requirements are.
I also note – as a strange additional point – it says ‘So simple to use you will lock your guns away every time’. Well, no, you WILL lock your guns away every time. It’s the law and the responsible thing to do. Easy or not. ↩
As hunters, we need to be sure we are doing everything we can to both identify and be identified by each other in the bush. Sadly, with the exception of 2017, every year, we have had an incident when one hunter has failed to identify their target and shot and killed another hunter.
While it’s important to note, the overall trend of incidents has been in steady decline, every incident is still a tragedy that shouldn’t have happened, and anything we can do to prevent further incidents should be considered and if worthwhile, implemented. Such is the case of hunters wearing Blaze in the bush.
For a long time, the only option for hi-vis (or blaze) was to either wear your work vest, or, a selection of blaze orange clothing made available by hunting companies. In the last couple of years though, this has changed.
Blue, Pink, fashion choices.
The Blaze Blue was added for two reasons. In 2003, Joe Green published a report entitled “To Hunt and Return – developing safe hunting practices” – one of the things this report tried to determine was the most appropriate coloured clothing to wear to be seen in the NZ bush. At the time, blaze orange was the most widely promoted option, but Joe’s research also identified blue as a colour that stood out as well as blaze orange. However, studies of deer vision indicate that they have a higher sensitivity to blue and ultraviolet, as they cannot see red or orange.
More Choice
The second reason is choice. For some hunters, Orange Blaze Camouflage is just still ‘uncool’ – I don’t know if it’s fear of looking like a council worker, male ego or vanity, believing that deer can see blaze orange and so prefer to wearing any camo to avoid being seen by deer and other hunters – but some guys still have a problem putting on something as simple as a hi-vis safety vest. Blue is now another option for people who cannot bring themselves to wear blaze orange and are not concerned by the fact that deer may be able to see them more readily in the bush. Then for the ladies, there is blaze pink, so most of the preferences are covered.
With this in mind, I enlisted the help of Frank Ferguson, Immediate Past President and HUNTS Coordinator for North Auckland Deerstalkers Association, and he was kind enough to spend some time in the bush being photographed in a variety of clothing options. We both share an interest in hunter safety – so it was good to get feedback from a man way more experienced in hunting than myself.
Identifying your target becomes particularly important at a distance. Especially at twilight – when many animals are most active. When he didn’t have Blaze Camouflage on, the only way I was able to tell Frank was there at all was when he waved his hand. If I didn’t know he was there and he wasn’t wearing blaze, could I have identified him as a person? Nope.
There it is! Shoot it!
Stag or buck fever might best be described as a high expectation of seeing or shooting a deer, such that the excitement and emotion overrides rational thinking – Joe Green, To Hunt and Return, 2003, page 3
Seeing someone in the bush wearing army camo is very difficult unless they move, whereas wearing blaze orange or blue allows rapid positive identification. So it is often movement that first catches your eye. A sudden rustle or flash of colour in the bushes nearby, what are you going to do? A responsible hunter is going to stop. Take a deep breath, and, as per the Arms Code: Identify your target, beyond all doubt. It always remains the shooters responsibility to correctly identify what they are shooting at, regardless of what other hunters are wearing. Movement, colour, sound and shape can all deceive you. Even a small part of a deer is not enough to shoot at, you must be absolutely certain before you pull the trigger. Remember you must also be able to see enough of the deer, preferably the head, neck and shoulder, to be able to place the bullet in a vital area for a quick, humane kill.
In Rod & Rifle, Dave Sharp suggests two great methods of ensuring you take the time to positively identify your target. Ask, what exactly is this deer? Is it a Hind? Red or Sika? How old is it? Winter Coat? In Velvet? Whatever. Get in the habit of taking the time to identify exactly the breed and condition of what you are about to fire at. You should know before you pull the trigger. Then ask, where am I shooting it?
You need to know not only what you are shooting at, but where. Is the patch of brown its rump? Is it shoulder? If you don’t already understand the importance of avoiding a gut shot, put down the firearm, and get yourself some training – the Deerstalkers HUNTS Course is a great place to start.
Or is it potentially a brown cap of a fellow hunter? There is, of course, another great question to be asking yourself in this situation – would a deer be wearing Blaze Clothing?
Cut to the chase; can deer see Blaze Camouflage?
Humans have three classes of cone photoreceptors which are the basis of trichromatic (literally three-color) vision. In humans this three-receptor system confers excellent color vision. Humans can distinguish small differences in wavelength across the spectrum. In contrast, only two classes of cone photoreceptors were detected in deer. Deer can have no better than dichromatic (two-color) vision. Thus, the color vision capacities of deer are, at best, limited compared to humans. The two classes of cones in deer allow for the ability to see color differences between short and mid-range wavelength light, e.g., blue and yellow, however, they lack the photoreceptor basis for seeing differences in the color of objects that reflect middle-to-long wavelength light, e.g., yellow-green, green, yellow, orange, and red. – Kurt von Besser, How Game Animals See & Smell
Well, according to the science, deer can’t see orange but can see blue. Looking at it another way, compared to humans, deer are colour-blind. In ‘human terms’ – they suffer from deuteranopia, “lacking the long-wavelength-sensitive retinal cones”, hence they cannot distinguish orange and red.
From ‘How Game Animals See & Smell’ by Kurt von Besser ATSKO/SNO-SEAL Inc.
What is very interesting is that, if we use the example of deuteranopia, then photo editing software, such as Adobe’s Photoshop, can be used to simulate the condition. Giving us an interesting insight into how deer may perceive the world.
Can you spot the hunter?
Slide 1 is how an average, non-colour-blind human will see the various clothing options. Slide 2, deuteranopia, is considered to be close to how many game animals see colour. Slide 3 is a combination of deuteranopia and blurriness – approximating deer vision. I say approximately because it’s very hard to get a deer to talk about their eyesight.
Arguably, the Deer’s eye is not capable of seeing orange, and its brain is incapable of seeing almost any colour at distance, relying instead on detecting movement – Joe Green, To Hunt and Return, 2003, page 5
Ok then. Orange Blaze Camouflage it is.
Well, not so fast. That is only half the story.
In essence, deer do not have 20/20 vision. Deer vision is likely to be significantly less acute, comparable to a human who has maybe 20/40 vision. As anyone with glasses can tell you, discerning objects with less visual acuity than 20/20 vision is not all that easy. For this reason alone, it is advantageous for hunters to hold still and add camouflage to their hunting gear.
This would suggest, that colour alone isn’t going to be enough to alert or concern a deer – after all, why would it? If blue was an instant panic button that deer associated with danger, every time they saw it they would start running. In fact deer have poor vision compared to a human, but they have a highly developed ability to detect movement and identify the body outline of predators and humans from their surroundings. This combined with an exceptional sense of hearing and smell has ensured their survival and allowed them to evade many a hunter. – Isa C, The Outdoor Experience
How many deer do you think have been taken over the years by guys in these? I would say a few. But its blue!
While a deer may not have as good as vision as ours, they are just as, if not more, sensitive to movement as we are. Take my first set of photos for example – with Frank in camo, I couldn’t see him, even though I thought I knew exactly where he was. Yet as soon as I asked him to wave – I could pinpoint him. This is much the same as a deer. You could be dressed up in a full Ghillie suit, but as soon as the animal sees you move they can detect your outline and they are gone. More than one story has been told by hunters of managing to stay still as a statue, and having animals come in close without issue, only to be spooked as soon as they tried to raise the rifle to shoot.
Here is a funny, related article – maybe we should be seeing more pink camo being used in NZ? The deer don’t seem to care much about the colour. Or do you think it’s the fact they can’t smell human, nor see any movement? Or could it be that deer do not expect danger from above, so they seldom look up?
Even in plain clothes, if a hunter holds still and breaks up his silhouette and eyes, some deer may approach within yards of him in their line of sight without recognizing him as a threat. However, in the same conditions, a hunter can be a 100 yards away, move his hand and be spotted by deer. That’s because their ability to sense motion and focus on the moving object is still quite effective, similar to T-Rex in Jurassic Park, only not as extreme (or scary). – Isa C, The Outdoor Experience
So, while a deer can see blue, that doesn’t automatically mean it’s going to scare them away.
How about UV Brighteners? Is that why hi-vis glows?
Studies have suggested that game animals can see much further into the short wavelength end of the colour spectrum than we can. Meaning they are able to see ultraviolet light and have far better nocturnal vision than we do. This tends to indicate that deer can detect ultraviolet light as a source of elimination and some things that we cannot see, may appear to have a distinct glow to a deer. UV Brighteners, which are put into clothing (even hunting clothing) to enhance the colours of the fabric, essentially works like a beacon to the eyes of these animals.
From ‘How Game Animals See & Smell’ by Kurt von Besser ATSKO/SNO-SEAL Inc.
It is argued that UV treated clothing, be it Blaze Orange or Camouflage, are equally visible to deer – due to the UV brighteners, not the colour. However, if you remove the UV brightener then the orange remains more visible to humans and less visible to deer. There are readily available washing products that contain no UV brighteners (Sports Wash) and others that remove UV brighteners (UV Killer). One thing I have thought about, that I will try to test at a later stage – is whether you get any difference in recognition between new blaze, which basically glows, and old, faded blaze. Certainly, there is concern that people are wearing blaze too long and once faded, the orange becomes much closer to a natural orange or even yellow. Sometimes approaching the colour of a deer in certain light conditions. Certainly, the difference between new and old blaze is readily apparent and should be replaced for your own safety.
So what to wear?
Well, I can tell you what not to wear – subdued colours. It’s all very well being concerned by some vague notion that a deer is going to bolt because it doesn’t like your choice of the colour palette but it is more likely to take off because it heard, smelt or saw you coming long before you spotted it. So that being the case, doesn’t it make more sense to worry about not getting mistaken for something that other hunters can take a shot at.
A couple of observations from the day
The blaze camouflage in either orange or blue sticks out more than traditional subdued colours – black, green, brown, all equally disappear quickly in dense bush.
The Stoney Creek Beanie and Ridgeline Bomber both have large areas of black – which detracts from the effect of the blaze.
The darker it gets (think: twilight) – the harder it was to see blue – whereas the orange still seems to stand out.
Older blaze (and fluoro) loses a lot of its ‘glow’.
You don’t have to be very far apart to lose track of the other party members in dense NZ bush. Blaze makes it much easier to locate them, as well as other hunters.
Too long, did not read. Just tell me what to wear.
Actually, how about I tell you to learn a bit of patience and realise that that same attitude is what can lead to misidentification in hunting?
Do whatever you can to make yourself stand out from the environment and the game you are hunting. There are now several options in the marketplace – from blaze orange and blue, to pink, which I am sure, if you are a fairly large male wearing fluoro pink in the bush, you are going to stand out. You might prefer a t-shirt, or a vest, or a mesh shirt over your normal top, but no matter what you are wearing – here a just a few things to consider:
If it is starting to fade, throw it out. Faded blaze is dangerous – if it is faded enough then blaze orange can start looking like a deer. New blaze is hard to mistake. Treat yourself to a new top each season – it’s worth it.
Wear an adequate area of blaze, preferably a cap and a vest as a minimum, that can be worn on the outside of whatever else you are wearing. Don’t put on a blaze top then cover it up with a pack, rain jacket or anything else – that’s why I like the long sleeve mesh top from Ridgeline – it goes over everything else, and the long sleeves stand out even when wearing a pack.
Got an animal? Excellent – carry some hi-vis fabric or a spare vest to wrap over the carcass if you intend to carry it out. Deer don’t generally wear hi-vis – so it will reduce the risk of your load getting mistaken for live game.
Don’t forget your dog. Get some orange ribbon – tie it around its neck. Helps you keep track of him, as well as others.
Just wear it. Be a responsible hunter to protect yourself and help others rapidly identify you as a hunter and not a deer. Think of your partner, children, family and friends who want you to come home safely. Take all practicable steps to keep yourself safe, it is the best insurance you can get.
Remember, regardless of what the other hunter is wearing YOU MUST IDENTIFY YOUR TARGET beyond all doubt. No meat is better than no mate!
Huge thanks to Frank for his contribution as a technical reference for this article. His knowledge and experience were very helpful. As well as being a willing model for the photographs!
It’s a phenomenal time to be out, but it’s also important to understand the effect on our vision.
Twilight Hunting – understanding the time and light.
Deer are crepuscular (Derived from the Latincrepusculum (“twilight”). Different to nocturnal in that primary activity isn’t in the middle of the night. Many animals described as nocturnal are actually crepuscular. Meaning they are primary active during twilight.), meaning they are primarily active in that period between day and night. This is when they will move about and are most likely to come out from the bush into clearings to feed.
It’s also an advantageous time to hunt because lower light also helps with concealment. While Deer do have good night vision, there is no denying that they don’t see ‘better’ than during daylight hours.
Additionally, for those carrying around cameras – twilight brings something photographers refer to as the magic hours. Periods where the natural lighting is at its best.
However, there is one additional and very relevant aspect to hunters out at this time. The colour of the world changes on you. For a short period of time the whole world turns orange, then blue – the very colours we may be wearing to help differentiate ourselves from the surrounding environment.
Now, I don’t believe any serious studies have ever been conducted on this. This article is simply a combination of my knowledge of photography and hunting. Take from it what you will.
The stages of light.
Twilight – golden hour, blue hour
The two times this article is specifically about is what is known as the golden hour and the blue hour. Two points within twilight where the angle of the sun creates quite distinct shades.
The golden hour, as it suggests, consists of warm orange and red shades – beautiful for landscape photography – also a great time to make your blaze orange vest melt into the rest of the background.
Conversely, following on from the golden hour (or before, depending if it’s sunset or sunrise) come the blue hour – at this point the sun is below the horizon, but still producing enough light to still being able to see. Blue blaze? You are now potentially wearing night-time camo.
Conversely, blaze orange is going to stand out more during the blue hour and vice versa.
The challenge is of course – these are both excellent hunting times.
These photos were taken minutes apart at dawn.
See how the cold blue of the night is quickly turning into the warm orange of dawn?
So, what color am I meant to be wearing then?
Well, sadly, there isn’t a perfect option. I guess a manufacturer could put out a reversible vest – but I don’t imagine most people are actually going to stop and turn their vest around. Besides, thanks to our wonderful brain – unless you are consciously thinking about it, you may not even notice the gradual shift from one stage to another.
Thankfully, there is one other aspect of both of these safety colors that helps. Fluorescence.
Yes, colors are enhanced. But don’t be surprised just how blue things get just before dark.
“When new, Blaze really does blaze.”
Fluorescence
Fluorescent colors use a larger amount of both the visible spectrum and the lower wavelengths compared to conventional colors. They not only absorb and convert light energy of the dominant wavelength, but also the wavelengths of ultraviolet rays and other colors lower in the visible spectrum. As a result, your eye perceives a far more intense color.
This is why a true fluorescent color will catch your eye much more than normal. There is additional information coming towards you that isn’t normally around. The brain is jolted by this and draws your attention to it.
When new, Blaze really does blaze. However, with time and washing, these brighteners quickly fade, and you end up with a garment that is essentially now a dull orange or blue.
Despite the claims that a faded blaze orange vest could look like a deer (no – it looks like a faded blaze vest), that fact remains that these safety garments are most effective when new. For their cost, it’s worthwhile replacing them on a yearly, if not even quarterly basis if you are heading out a lot.
Changing colors. At certain points, you will have both gold and blue light.
Suggestions?
This article doesn’t claim to have any answers regarding optimising your visibility during the changing colors of twilight, other than to say any blaze (new) is better than none.
More importantly, it is trying to highlight the importance of positively identifying your target before pulling the trigger. Twilight is the peak time to hunt – but we also need to be aware that it’s the time that our human vision is trying to deal with a lot. So be double sure what you are shooting at is what you actually think it is. Sound, movement, and color are not enough to positively identify something. You need to be able to tell the sex, the age and the condition of the animal you are shooting. Even then, ask yourself, more than once – could this be a person?
Updated 18-2-2019 with Theory/Practical Combination
Updated 29-5-2019 with Endorsement Details
Updated 25-11-2020 with new application form details
Why would you want a Firearms Licence?
I have learnt, over a few years, that the reasons for a new shooter to get a firearms licence is as varied as the owners themselves. People from all age groups, races, religions, social economic groups and more own and use firearms regularly.
However, there are three core (and one extra) reasons people decide to undertake the path to responsible firearms ownership.
Hunting
Certainly, for the majority of firearms licences issues in New Zealand, the main reason is to purchase and use a firearm as a tool for the hunting of animals. Though, the actual reason people hunt is varied and wide and includes…
Tradition – there are more than a few third or fourth generation hunters in NZ
Economics – for some, if they don’t hunt their meat, there isn’t meat to be had.
Traceability – a modern drive towards, sustainable, organic meat harvest
Fun – it’s a reason to get outdoors, to explore the bush and come back with something
Competition
There is a healthy, and growing sports shooting community in NZ as well. Many disciplines are small enough that you may not be aware of them – but just do a little digging, and you find something that appeals.
I personally got into the path of firearms ownership via hunting, but quickly diverted into competitive pistol shooting for a couple of years before returning back to the long-guns (rifles) and headed into long-range field shooting competition.
There is also a large community of both antique and modern firearms collectors in New Zealand. This is probably the most controlled class of firearms ownership, with very strict controls in regards to traceability and security. But, if you are driven to build a collection of pre-WWII personal sidearms from a specific region in the world, for example, you can do it in New Zealand.
Fun
And, of course, plenty of people just enjoy owning and shooting firearms. It’s a great hobby, that anyone (anyone fit and proper to do so) can get into easily.
Who needs a firearms licence?
Anyone who wants to legally own and use (without supervision) firearms in New Zealand needs to have a Firearms Licence. Unlike some other places in the world, New Zealand licences its population to own a firearm. Once deemed fit and proper, we can go out and purchase firearms as we like. With some exceptions (some firearms require additional endorsements) most firearms are owned through this process.
If you just want to try out shooting a gun – you may not need a licence. Anyone can use an A category (refer further down) firearm without a licence if they are under the direct supervision of a licence holder. Anyone can also shoot pistols (B Category) on an approved pistol range, again, under the direct supervision of a licence holder.
If you are interested in checking out and maybe even shooting a gun – I strongly suggest you get in touch with a local club (check out our resource list here) – most are more than willing to get you out and have a go. If you are in Auckland – get in touch with me1 as I am more than happy to help facilitate interested parties in having a go.
Airguns
It should be noted that airguns are covered under firearms law – there are age restrictions that require a licenced holder, and not everything can be owned. I don’t claim to know all the details – I would suggest you consult with the Police or your local airsoft/paintball/airgun club on that one.
Who can get a firearms licence?
Anyone over the age of 16 can apply for their New Zealand firearms licence.
Visitors to New Zealand, who are planning on staying less than a year, are recommended to instead apply for a visitors licence.
The Process
In July/August 2018, the process of applying and obtaining a New Zealand Firearms Licence changed. Until then, there had never been a practical component of the firearms licence testing. Now, it is a combination of a theory test (understanding the law) and a practical course (showing basic firearms handling competency).
Essentially though, when you apply for a licence, you will be assessed for your suitability to own and use firearms. It’s a big responsibility. As I often say to people, firearms owners are some of the few people in New Zealand that have officially been recognised as ‘fit and proper people’ by the New Zealand Police and Government.
Download and Pay for the firearms licence
You are reading this on the internet, so download the form from here, and fill it in. Then you need to pop into a PostShop, pay the licensing fee and get a receipt. The cost of a new firearms licence is $126.50, with endorsements being another $204.
Get some passport photos, submit the application
The photo has the same requirements as a passport – many chemists will be able to help you out here. You need two of them if physically submitting the application, otherwise, you need a digital file.
Once you have gathered all the required info/documents – the new preference is to upload the application form over here. This includes the photo file, a scan of payment receipt and your identification documents.
If you are unable to upload the files then, take the application form and ID, the receipt of payment, the two photos and pop into your local police station. Say hello to the nice folks behind the counter, and hand in your application.
The background check
The police will undergo a background check to ascertain if you have any major issues or history that may preclude you from having a firearms licence. Once this is done, they will send you a letter to let you know all is well and its time to go through the Firearms Safety Program.
The Firearms Safety Program
This is where the new system diverts from the previous. There are two parts. A theory test and a new practical assessment.
The Theory Test
Download, or get a copy of the New Zealand Arms Code from your local police station. Study it, learn it, memorise it. While to be blunt, you won’t need to retain all of its contents – the theory test is a test of your understanding and comprehension of that document. Then, pop over and go through an online quiz to see how you are getting on.
Also – now is a really good time to mention these as well…
The Seven Rules of Firearms Safety
Treat every firearm as loaded
Always point firearms in a safe direction
Load a firearm only when ready to fire
Identify your target beyond all doubt
Check your firing zone
Store firearms and ammunition safely
Avoid alcohol or drugs when handling firearms
Firearms Safety Course
From 1 March 2019, the Firearms Safety Course will be a three and a half hour session delivered by firearms instructors from the New Zealand Mountain Safety Council at venues across the country.
Once you have received the confirmation letter from the Police (having already submitted the application) then you can pop over here and book – https://www.firearmsafety.org.nz/
Firearms Theory Test
30 minutes to answer a multi-choice scratchy. It’s easy if you have read the Arms Code.
If you don’t get it done the first time around, after the course, you get to try again.
Fail again, it’s noted, and you likely need to sit down with an Arms Officer and have a chat.
Firearms Practical Training
The firearms practical training course is a two-hour session delivered by firearms instructors from the Mountain Safety Council (I am one of them – if you book in Point Chev in Auckland, you are likely to meet me there) at venues across NZ.
The point of this training is to give you some hands-on time with firearms, and an opportunity to learn and practise the basic, core safety principles in regards to handling firearms.
When you turn up (be on time!) you will need to bring:
Your letter from the NZ Police saying you can undertake the Firearms Safety Program
Proof of identity such as a drivers license or passport (something with photo ID ideally)
DONT – bring any firearms or ammo (for a start, you don’t have a firearms licence, and disabled firearms are provided)
The course will take approximately three hours and cover off:
The Teory Test
Safety precautions and general handling skills with different types of firearms
Safe carriage of firearms, including checking the firearm is safe and placing or removing it from a rifle carry bag, transit case or a vehicle
States of readiness (load, action, instant, unload)
There is no live firing of firearms in this course.
Nearly there! Now for the interview.
The final step in the process is the interview with a Police Arms Officer. At this time, they will also check your security measures are in place.
Remember, don’t panic. The person that comes out to see you will be just that. A person, a fellow human being. Treat them as such. They have likely heard every answer that anyone could come up with already. It’s their job to ascertain your suitability to own and shoot firearms. They are nice folk, doing their job. Offer them a cup of tea or coffee, make them comfortable, and you will have no issues. Go into it defensively, and don’t be surprised if you get an equal reaction.
A lot can be said about Gun Security – and it’s important to recognise New Zealand has some of the best requirements in the world. However, can I please request you go above and beyond – and don’t just do enough to scrape through. If you have to ask ‘is it enough’ – then it probably should be better. Just IMHO, of course.
After you get your licence
This should just be the beginning of your journey into firearms training and education. By that, I mean, you should seriously consider getting in touch with a local club or organisation and go and learn more from experienced people. Even if you have already handled firearms (in another country, growing up, in the military) – there is plenty to gain and understand about the local culture by joining a club.
I personally, used to have my A, B, D, E licences. The E no longer exists, and I may get my B back next year. But, what do they actually mean?
Pistols (B endorsement) – yes, you can own and shoot handguns in NZ
A collection of pistols or restricted weapons (C Collectors or Museum endorsement)
Pistols or restricted weapons for performing a play/film/re-enactment (C Theatrical endorsement) – you know all the guns they have in movies?
Dealers Licence – the ability to buy and sell firearms for commercial gain (D Licence )
Military-style semi-automatic rifles or shotguns (E endorsement) – NOW INVALID as all MSSA’s are currently prohibited. This has been replaced by the P endorsement.
Pistols or restricted weapons for hire or sale (F endorsement – dealers)
I would suggest, just focusing on your A initially – it’s a separate process for the endorsements – and while I do encourage people to get into competition shooting – let’s take it one thing at a time aye.
This first video is a little bit of retro goodness – though some of the info is a little outdated now..
[fvplayer src=”https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0_dAMcgfyc” playlist=”https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3l1XtWtEppA;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQB3-00aYYk;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KH8DDnVi4-4;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBTs9YE5J7A;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DQfPLGfLOSk” caption=”1. Treat every firearm as loaded;2. Always point firearms in a safe direction;3. Load a firearm only when ready to fire;4. Identify your target beyond all doubt;5. Check your firing zone;Store firearms and ammunition safely, avoid alcohol or drugs when handling firearms;”]
A couple of FAQs
Firstly, thanks for the awesome response in regards to this article. It’s appreciated – and lets me know I am on the right track.
A couple of questions have come up more than once – so I thought I would clarify where I could – these answers are put out there under collaboration with the NZ Police – but – like all things – you have to understand there are exceptions, and without me understanding the entire situation, it’s hard for me to give definitive answers sometimes.
No. I am not an Arms Officer. Nor am I a lawyer – so case-specific questions, sorry, but I have to be a little off-hand-ish in my answers.
Renewals – no – firearms licence renewals do not have to go through the new system. However, a renewal is not a reinstatement (due to losing it for whatever reason) nor is it a re-application after a license has lapsed for a period in time. These situations are dealt with on a case-by-case basis. Talk to your RO.
The cost remains the same. There is no charge for the practical element of the firearms licence – or – more correctly, it’s included in your initial payment.
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1. Not zeroing it like you shoot
This is a popular notion that a ransom rest or some other highly restrictive and heavy rest is the way to zero your rifle. Which is valid, if you intend to carry all that equipment with you in the bush.
When you shoot your rifle differently, unsurprisingly, it shoots differently.
Bipod on/off, using bags, standing, sitting, prone – we should understand that both how we shoot the firearm, and what is attached to it is going to affect the harmonics of the barrel and in turn, where the bullet lands.
People justify using heavy bags to zero a rifle saying that they want to remove the ‘shooter’ from the rifle zero. The problem with this is, the shooter is present when you actually want to shoot the rifle during hunting. Often, this is also because people might consider themselves a good enough shot to zero the rifle – but – sorry guys – but how well you shoot (or don’t) needs to be factored into the rifle zero.
If you don’t shoot well enough to zero a rifle, then maybe you need a reality check about how ethical you shooting at an animal is as well.
Maybe it’s simply a case of more practice, or maybe you might consider some actual training – to ensure you are getting the most out of your firearm and doing all you can to ensure you are an ethical, responsible hunter shooting at live animals.
Regardless, it’s always best practice to zero your hunting rifle in the most stable position you are likely to actually use while hunting. For most this will be over a backpack or bipod prone. Certainly, I am not suggesting you zero a rifle off-hand standing.
2. Adjusting the scope after each shot
I have watch a lot of guys go through a pack of ammo at the range chasing the last round they shot. Shoot one, adjust the scope, shoot again, adjust the scope – no matter what they do, they never seem to be able to get that shot to land in the middle of the bull.
We need to understand, that very few of us (or our rifles) shoot one ragged hole at 100. As a result, we may have a 1 moa (or more) group size. Each shot has the potential to land anywhere within that group – and if we are using just a sample size of one (that is, one shot) – then we are simply chasing that inherent group spread.
You should be shooting a minimum of three round groups, averaging the centre, and using that for any adjustments. Center off the group, not simply the last round shot.
3. Not using your hunting ammunition
‘Oh, I am just using my plinking ammo’.
Each combination of hunting rifle, ammo and shooter will result in a different result. Therefore, it makes little sense to zero with one ammo type (the cheap stuff) then hunt with the premium ammo.
You are better (if you need to) – to get on paper with the cheap stuff (though maybe just come out with us and we can show you how to easily zero your rifle) then confirm your final zero with your hunting ammo.
Sure, use cheaper ammo for a fun day at the range, but don’t adjust your scope to suit it – zero your hunting rifle for the ammo that you will be using when it counts!
Bonus – software that makes it easy!
Ballistic-X is a great app that makes the zeroing process easy.
Once you are close to a known point, simply shoot a group of three or more, snap a photo, enter in the details and click on the point of aim and shots and it gives you the correction. Meters or Yards, MOA or MIL – it’s actually a really simple process and one I use for most my setups these days. It’s also a great way to record the zero for clients.
Through my involvement with the FirearmsSafety Training for the NZ Police, I am always reminded of the wide diversity of Firearms Owners and Hunters in New Zealand. Of particular interest to me, has been the feasibility and details surrounding Halal Hunting – what is permissible – what is achievable for Muslims wanting to hunt their own meat in Aoteroa.
I have had the pleasure of speaking to Mike Rudling from Radix a few times now, and his level of focus has always left a resounding impression on me.
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They guy is on a mission to provide the absolute best nutrition, on demand, no matter where you are. The level of constant refinement and innovation in the product and the methodology of production is awesome.
They are still running as an essential service during the lockdown, and we though it would be a great opportuntity to sit down and have a chat. Enjoy!
Keen to try out some RADIX?
Visit Radix to order some Nutritional Goodness and get 10% off with our exclusive code – KERRY10 – just enter it at checkout.
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I get to shoot a large variety of rifles – different calibres, brands, stocks, suppressors and more. Each has its own benefits (and drawbacks).
The more I shoot them though, the clearer it becomes to me that there is actually a solid, clear answer for where people should be starting when they are considering their first rifle. So. What should you get first?
Get a 22.
Surprise! Yeah.
Everyone loves to debate first cartridges – argue over .308 vs 7mm08 vs 6.5 Creedmoor – but I feel they are all missing a fundamental point. The fundamentals.
More than once I have had a new shooter out, with the latest and greatest, and realise the main issue is not what calibre the rifle is, but the simple fact they haven’t done much shooting and need some training on the basics.
I was the same.
I wish someone had given me this advice when I got into hunting. As it was, I did a pile of internet research and ended up with a 7mm08 Browning X-Bolt. Still have the rifle, and it is great.
I headed out to the range, really without an idea in the world and bumbled my way through a box of ammo.
Head forward a few years, and I finally understand (slow learner) the many benefits of a 22LR to get going on.
Many guys in the country grow up shooting 22s – so this article is really aimed more at the city folks (like myself).
They let you focus on the important stuff
A 22LR doesn’t kick. So – new shooters can forget about recoil as an issue and learn proper shooting techniques, without potentially inducing flinch due to recoil and noise.
I would still suggest a suppressor though – as the more I do this, the more I come to the conclusion that a flinch – anticipating a shot and naturally going into ‘protective mode’ is as related to noise as it is to the physical kick of a rifle.
So – lots of practice without learning to anticipate the trigger break and tightening up beforehand.
They are cheap to shoot
A box of CCI Standard, meaning, 100 rounds is, well, nothing compared to the price of most 20 round boxes of hunting ammo.
So – while I am not suggesting people just head out and shoot a box of ammo without considering what they are doing (shooting without a purpose or intent is fun, but you likely won’t learn much) – the cost per shot is so low with general 22 ammo that the cost is not a barrier to having some practice with the rifle.
You don’t need a massive distance
50, or even 25 meters is plenty of distance to shoot a 22. Sure – we all want to shoot far – but a lot (the most) can really be learnt up close. So – if you don’t have access to a 1k shooting range a 22LR allows you to head to most ranges, or, with appropriate safety considerations, the back of a farm and get some practice in.
There are plenty of simple drills out there that will challenge you. For a real simple start, just put a timer on. A clock does amazing things to your mental state.
You can hunt with them
While I am not here to condone hunting medium-sized game animals with them (can be done, internet warriors rejoice!) – there is plenty of pest control to be had with a 22LR. Find someone with a farm, lifestyle block, vineyard, get to know them, see if you can head out to shoot a rabbit or two.
This practice is valid for hunting the big stuff as well – and learning to skin and gut a small animal is great practice for the bigger animals.
So – sorry about the bait and click. But not really.
Everyone should have a 22LR – it doesn’t need to be an expensive match grade custom built in a chassis gun either. Learn its limitations, learn how to work around them, and you are well on your way to understanding how guns works, and apply the fundamentals of shooting no matter how big (or small) the cartridge is.
What about an airgun?
You know what. Yes. Also valid as an option. If I think about it – as a kid, that is where I started as well. Back in the day, you could shoot an airgun in a central urban Auckland backyard, that is.
Seriously though… what rifle cartrige should I get?
Well. Basically, I think the question is a little flawed – or at least – it certainly isn’t the only or first question you should be asking.
There is a pile of cartridges in the mid-range out there that are suitable. And people face a real issue with decision paralysis. Better to be out and hunting than standing in a gun store pondering the benefits of a .308 over a 7mm08.
What I recommend changes from person to person, and, it has changed as a general rule, from what I used to suggest as well.
So, sorry – there isn’t a simple answer to that question. Though, happy to help you figure out the questions to ask yourself to get to that answer yourself.
This term combines how far from the scope’s rear and how wide the size of that sweet spot is. As you increase magnification, the eye relief can shrink. This wasn’t much of an issue when the high-zoom scopes generally only lived on the small-bore and varmint rifles. But this has changed – now, magnums and more are wearing high-zoom scopes to enable them to reach out even further.
So – as scopes have become more and more powerful, more and more eye relief (at the top end) has become a requirement: short eye relief, lots of recoil – a perfect recipe for some scope bite. However, while this is an import factor, it works in with another, sometimes misunderstood term – field of view.
“The ordinary is often extraordinary when you take a closer look.”
Exploring the origins of these names is not just a lesson in etymology but a journey through time, inventions, and cultural shifts. It’s a reminder that every object has a narrative, often intertwined with the lives of people who left their mark on the world in unexpected ways. Join me as we unravel the stories behind these humble yet intriguingly named tools.
Unveiling The Mystery: The Origin Of Lazy Susan
Have you ever found yourself at a dining table, reaching out for a dish just out of arm’s length and thinking, “If only I had one of those spinning trays!”? This ingenious contraption, commonly known as a Lazy Susan, has spun its way into the heart of many households, but its origin remains intriguingly hazy.
As a child, I remember the special treat of heading out to a Chinese restaurant for dinner. And I also remember the unique table that would be at the centre of it all, spinning around serving up an endless supply of tasty treats. It wasn’t until years later, during a casual conversation at a friend’s dinner party, that the curious name “Lazy Susan” grabbed my attention. But why Susan, and why lazy?
Legend has it that the term might have originated from Thomas Jefferson, who supposedly invented a similar turntable for his daughter, Susan, though there’s no concrete evidence supporting this story. Others attribute the name to the early 20th century when such devices became popular in America. Theories suggest that “Susan” was a common maid’s name, and the term reflected a device that could take over some of the serving tasks typically done by a household servant, thus the term “lazy” attached to it.
The Ingenious Allen Key: A Name With A Twist
Reflecting on my own experiences, I often marvel at everyday objects that seamlessly integrate into our lives. The Allen Key, for instance, is one such tool that carries a story worth telling. You see, this name didn’t always know this indispensable tool. Its naming journey is a fascinating tale of innovation and branding.
The story begins in the early 20th century with William G. Allen, an inventor from Massachusetts. Allen was passionate about creating safer and more efficient tools. His breakthrough came with the invention of the hexagonal screw and the corresponding driving tool, which we now fondly call the Allen Key. The revolutionary design offered a simple yet incredibly effective solution for tightening and loosening fasteners.
But the name ‘Allen Key’ wasn’t an immediate hit. Initially, it was referred to as the ‘Allen Wrench,’ a term still commonly used in America. However, in NZ and other parts of the world, it evolved into the ‘Allen Key,’ a tribute to the tool’s shape and functionality.
Guy Rope: A Name Anchored In Tradition
As a child, I spent countless weekends camping with my family. Setting up the tent was always a beloved ritual, and I distinctly remember my father explaining the importance of securing the guy ropes. Little did I know that simple camping equipment had a name steeped in history and tradition.
The term “guy rope” dates back to the early 17th century, deriving from the Old French word “guie,” which means a guide or a rope. It was initially used in the nautical world, where sailors would rely on these ropes to guide the sails and rigging of their ships. The word “guy” has evolved, and in this context, it has nothing to do with the modern-day usage of referring to a man or fellow.
One might ponder the significance of such a name – after all, why not simply call it a “support rope”? The answer lies in the rich tradition of nautical terminology, which has influenced many aspects of our language. The sailors’ reliance on guy ropes for stability and safety mirrored our need for security during our camping adventures. By calling them “guy ropes,” we honour this historical connection and the legacy of the maritime traditions that shaped them.
The Rawlplug: Or is that Wall Plug?
Interestingly, few know that the Rawlplug owes its name to John Joseph Rawlings, the British engineer who invented it in 1910. It was Rawlings who saw the need for a simple yet effective solution to secure screws in materials that couldn’t hold them on their own, like plaster walls. The Rawlplug, an early form of the modern wall anchor, transformed how we approach DIY projects and construction.
This nifty invention was a technical breakthrough and a solution borne out of necessity. Imagine trying to mount shelves or fixtures in a home without a reliable means of securing them. Rawlings’ insight and ingenuity provided an efficient answer that we often take for granted today. His name became synonymous with the small but mighty device; hence, “Rawlplug” entered the vernacular as a proper name for wall anchors in general.
But – there’s more!
As we dive deeper into the intertwined stories of everyday items and their names, it’s fascinating to think about how many more tales are hidden in plain sight.
For instance, consider the humble Leotard. Named after the French acrobat Jules Léotard, this form-fitting attire has become a staple in dance studios and gyms worldwide. Each time I slip into one for my yoga class, I can’t help but feel a connection to the daring spirit of its namesake, imagining his flips and somersaults through the air.
Another classic example is the Cardigan. Named after James Thomas Brudenell, the 7th Earl of Cardigan, this cosy garment has a rich military history dating back to the Crimean War. Wearing one during the chilly months feels like wrapping myself in a piece of history, reminding me of how fashion often intersects with our past.
Let’s not forget about the Graham Cracker, named after Reverend Sylvester Graham, who promoted the idea of a vegetarian diet in the 19th century.
And what about those rejuvenating Jacuzzi whirlpools? Named after the Jacuzzi brothers, who invented the first underwater pump for personal use, these hot tubs are not just about luxury; they represent innovation and a leap towards modern relaxation solutions.
Then there’s the Bunsen Burner, an essential apparatus in laboratories worldwide. Named after German chemist Robert Bunsen, each whisper of flame that dances above the burner sparks a deeper appreciation for scientific discovery.
Speaking of innovation, let’s talk about the Diesel Engine, named after its inventor Rudolf Diesel. This powerhouse of engineering changed the landscape of transportation and industry.